Cesta kolem světa 8/2005-4/2007

Samaipata aneb povedeny odjezd

October 16, 2006 on 10:59 pm | In Bolivie |

437. Den (16.10.2006)

Vcerejsi planovany odjezd vecer jsme odsunuli na dnesek, a to opet na vecer, protoze zadne jine spojeni nez kolem sedme ci osme vecerni smerem do mesta “Sucre” neni. Po snidani ve stejnem duchu jako vcera spokojene lenosime v nasich postylkach az do 12 hodiny, kdy je “check-out”. Zanechavame nase vypasene potvurky a vyrazime do parku na hlavnim namesti “Plaza de 15 Decembre”, na kterem je neobvykle mnozstvi lavicek a kvetin.

Ani se nemuzeme divit, ze malou vesnicku “Samaipata” na upati pohori “Cordillera Oriental” si oblibili zahranicni cestovatele, kteri se tu nakonec usadili. V soucasnosti ma vesnicka cca 45 stalych zahranicnich obyvatel prevazne z Nemecka, Holandska ale i Madarska, kteri si otevreli ruzne zivnosti vetsinou v turistickem ruchu.

Do blizkeho okoli dodava vynikajici uzeniny nemecky reznik, na namesti mame vyber z nemecky ci holandsky rizene restaurace a na vylet do “Parque Nacional Amboro” ci blizke “El Fuerte” muzeme take vyrazit nekolika zahranicnimi cestovkami. Nekteri se vrhli do agro podnikani ci zemedelstvi a spolecne vsichni tito novousadlici mohou zamestnavat a zivit okolo dalsich 200 domorodcu.

Je zajimave, ze toto souziti starousedliku a zahranicnich pristehovalcu funguje zde, ale napriklad v horach jsou mistni domorodci mnohdy i proti vlastnim lidem ze sousedni vesnicky ci mesta, jako napriklad v okoli jezera “Titikaka”.

Pozorujeme zivot v nemecky rizene restauraci “La Vaca Loca” a jsme zvedavi, co dneska bude za “menu del dia”. Nase cekani si zpestrujeme navstevou mistniho trziste, kde je mozne koupit temer vsechno od ovoce a zeleniny pres obleceni, nabytek ci obycejne potraviny az po detske kocarky, piratsky nahrane DVD ci CD nebo pulky hoveziho ci kurata. Kolem nasi oblibene prodavacky ovoce, ktera prave obedva, vychazime ven a pozorujeme mistni starenky, ktere z kolecek prodavaji banany a pomerance.

Po kratke prochazce stale rozestavenym mestem zakotvujeme v nasi oblibene restauraci, kde k nasemu prekvapeni zjistujeme, ze ode dneska jiz opet maji “chuleta de chancho” - veprovy prirodni rizek podavany s ryzi a cerstvym salatem za 15 bolivijanek. Spolecne s kuchynskou osadkou poslouchame nemeckou hudbu a vychutnavame si odpoledni slunicko.

Pred sestou hodinou si vyzvedavame nase potvurky z hotelu a vyrazime k hlavni ceste, kde bychom meli chytnout bus do “Sucre”. U hlavni cesty se zacinaji shromazdovat taxici, lide pomalounku zacinaji otvirat sve usmudlane restaurace, hotylek opodal zapina svuj poutac a vsichni vcetne nas a nekolika dalsich postavajicich turistu jsou pripraveni na prijezd busu, ale nic se nedeje.

Pred sedmou se zacinaji objevovat prvni nakladaky s osvicenou ceduli “Sucre”, ktere v otevrene korbe z casti okupovane hlavkami zeli, drevem ci nabytkem jeste navic prepravuji zive osoby. Jizdu pred den v korbe nakladaku bychom mohli zkusit, ale v noci se nam do toho nechce, a tak stale cekame.

Postupne zjistujeme, ze vetsina turistu ma jiz zakoupeny listek od mistni agentury, a muzeme jen doufat, ze nektery z avizovanych cca sedmi busu bude mit volno. Projizdi nekolik busu do mestecka “Aiquile”, ktere je po ceste, a vsechny jsou plne. Doufame jen, ze nas pruvodce, kdyz zminoval, ze vetsinou tu lide planuji zustat den ci dva a nakonec tu stravi tyden, nemyslel nemoznost odjet z duvodu preplnenosti busu.

Za tmy konecne prijizdi prvni bus s napisem “Sucre” a zastavuje. Zbesile vybihaji tri muzicci a snazi se zjistit, kdo ma jiz koupeny listek a kdo ne. Mame stesti. Hledaji pasazery, na kterych by si mohli prividelat, a tak po zavreni nasich potvurek v zavazadlovem prostoru jsme natlaceni do busu. Ha! Neni misto! A stat v chodbicce 13 hodin se nam zrovna nechce. Dva ridici a dva prodavaci listku neztraceji nadeji a behem nekolika sekund mame jedno male sedatko vedle ridice a kousek prostoru na motoru u ridice volne.

Nadhozenou cenu 70 bolivijanek za ne prilis velky konfort s dalsimi peti lidmi, jsme nakonec snizili na 60 bolivijanek na osobu a zacali se smirovat s rusnou 13 hodinovou cestou. Hmm. To jsme zase naleteli! Behem pulhodiky zastavujeme v male vesnicce s mnoha restauracemi a mame pulhodinovou prestavku. Vyuzivam chvilku a nenapadne pozoruji ostatni prijizdejici busy, ale situace je beznadejna. Vsechny jsou az po ridicovi dvere plne. Nakonec muzeme byt radi, ze nas alespon jeden bus vzal.

Po prestavce, ve ktere si ridic od majitelky restaurace prisel na ctyri pekne kousky kuratka, hledame vhodnou pozici na cestu, kdyz v tom zastavujeme. Kapacitu bolivijskych busu muzeme popsat slovy “One more!” - Jeste jeden pasazer! V deviti lidech zvlastne propletenych v kabince u ridice se dostavame do pohybu. Jiz nehledam nejlepsi pozici pro cestu, protoze mam pouze jednu, ve ktere mi v levych zatackach sedi jedna plnostihla mistni starenka na kline. Lucka se schovava jeste s jednou veselou domorodkyni za ridicovym sedadlem a z meho otevreneho okenka lapa po dechu nad vyhratym motorem.

Dalsi zastavka. Tentokrate u ridice opusteneho pokazeneho busu, ktery od naseho ridice dostava vodu, par susenek a ctyri kuratka na preziti v chladne noci u rozdelaneho ohynku u cesty. Jednotlivi pasazeri naseho omezeneho cestovniho prostoru se snazi zmenit sve pozice, ale nejde jim to. Po chvilce nachazi nas ridic rozlusteni. Plnostihlou starenku mi sundava z klina a spolecne s jejim nejvice se roztahujicim ditetem ji zavira do zavazadloveho prostoru.

Nas vydech trval pouze do te doby, nez jsme pribrali dalsi zenu, ktera obklopila svymi nekolika nusemi uvolneny prostor. U cedule “Sucre 280 km” najizdime na prasnou kamenitou cestu, na ktere v radostnem objeti mistnich domorodcu budeme travit jeste nejakych osm hodin.

Kolem treti hodiny ranni se na nas usmiva stesti. Velke nuse i se svou majitelkou mizi venku a postupne se zacinaji v nekolika vesnickach za sebou vytracet lide z naseho busu. Po dalsi kratke zastavce u otevrene restaurace s majitelkou zvouci na hamburger a hranolky se uvolnuje jedno sedadlo v predni casti busu vedle cerstve maminky s kojicim ditetem a Lucka vyhrava. Pred sestou hodinou ranni se uvolnuje dalsi misto a mam stesti. Je moje a vysilenim usinam.

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krasne prožiti vanocnich svatku…doufam že jste zdravi a pochutnavate si na bramborovem salatu a kaprikovi…to je sice cista provokace ale mam vas rada a chci tancovat foxtrot…papa jana a peta a jirka

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Samaipata aneb povedeny odjezd

437. Den (16.10.2006)

1 Comment »

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Cesta kolem světa 8/2005-4/2007

Samaipata aneb povedeny odjezd

437. Den (16.10.2006)

1 Comment »

Leave a comment

Prave se nachazime:

Byli jsme na ceste:

Bud otravovan !

Kategorie:

Archiv:

Odkazy:

Statistiky clanku:

Nejctenejsi:

Nejlepe hodnocene:

Nejcasteji hodnocene:

Administrace: