Cesta kolem světa 8/2005-4/2007

Anapurna range

November 28, 2005 on 3:02 pm | In Nepal |

113. Den (28.11.2005)

Budik v 4:30 nam oznamuje, ze bychom meli vstavat, ale tma jako v pytli za oknem, nas nuti jeste spat, a tak pretacime budik o pulhodinku pozdeji. Tma uplne stejna jako pred pulhodinkou v nas vyvolava podezreni zda vubec dnes nejake to slunce vyjde.

V 5:45 vyrazime na kopec, kde jsme se byli podivat jiz vcera, avsak atmosfera sera a natazene ostnate drady nam moc nadeji pro vstup nedavaji. Zivot tesne pred sestou hodinou ranni se probudil a s jistym nedockavym nasazenim se spolecne s nekolika daslimi turisty vydavame na studene lavicky posedu.

Pomalounku se rozedniva a na vychode pozorujeme tvorici se zlutou zari, ktera se postupne zacina menit na oranzovou az cervenou zari. Rozedniva se. S nadsenim pozorujeme zvetsujici se zari, ktera osvetluje nejvyssi vrcholky v pohori Anapurny - hory Dhaulagiri (8167 m) a Anapurna I. (8091 m) a vytvari tak opticky klam, kdy nami pozorovane vyssi vrcholky jsou ve stinu a nizsi, avsak vzdalenejsi a ve skutecnosti vyssi vrcholky jsou jiz z poloviny osvetlene slunecnimi paprsky.

Z leva doprava pozorujeme jednotlive vrcholky pohori Anapurna, tj. hory Dhaulagiri (8167 m), South Anapurna (7219 m), Anapurna I. (8091 m), Hinchuli (6441 m), Fishtail (6997 m), Anapurna III. (7555 m), Anapurna IV. (7525 m) a Anapurna II. (7939 m).

Vyuzivame kazne sekundy a spolecne s dalsimi turisty se delime o nadherny vyhled z rozhledny. Cervanky nadherne osvetluji vrcholky hor a jejich zare pomalu sestupuje az na upati jednotlivych vrcholku.

Idylka skoncila. Cervanky velmi rychle zmizely a byly nahrazeny mlhou a smogem pomalu vystupujicim z jednotlivych udoli. Ani teoreticky nadherny vyhled na jezero “Phewa Tal” nam nebyl umoznen.

Prichazeji dalsi a dasli turisticti ospalci, ale prvni a posledni vyhled s postupne rostoucimi cervankovymi vrcholky je nenavratne pryc. Zima pomalu opada a slunce jiz bez cervanku nam zacina ukazovat sve prvni teple paprsky na horske masivy.

Sestupujeme kolem ospale nepalske vojenske hlidky zpet do hotelu, kde na strese si objednavame snidani v podobe “breakfast set”, ktere v sobe zahrnuje caj, toast, maslo nebo marmeladu a vajicka.

Jako prvni dostavame citronovy caj, ktery nas pekne zahriva. Po celkem dlouhe pauze se na nas stul dostavaji vajicka, avsak bez toastu, masla ci marmelady. Po nekolika upozornenich jsme dostali maslo a marmeladu, avsak na toast jsme si museli jeste par minut pockat. Mezitim byla nase vajicka uz pekne studena a caj davno vypity.

Nasi dlouhou chvilku cekani si kratime s jednim pruvodcem trech Japonciku, ktery ma s nimi namirene take do Pokhary. I kdyz starsi japonska vyprava chce jit po ceste, pruvodce jsme zahadnym zpusobem presvedcili k tomu, aby japonskou vypravu vzal nasim smerem. Zrejme prevypravena story o Maoistech ci rebelech, ktera radi v dzungli mezi Sarangkotem a Pokharou.

Spolecne se tremi starsimi Japonciky a nepalskym pruvodcem se vydavame prudce dolu kamenitou pesinou mezi primitivnimi domecky, pred kterymi pobihaji male deti a intenzivne na nasi skupinu povolavaji “rupee, rupee!”, “money, money!”, “pen, pen” ci “picture”. Jedna starsi Japonka z nasi vypravy vytahuje z batohu jidlo v sacku a dava ho muzickovi s ditetem v naruci.

Prvni reakce muzicka byla ponekud zdrzenliva a po prijeti sacku na nas spolecne s pobihajicimi detmi zacal povolavat “rupee, rupee!”, “money, money!”. Takovym to zpusobem se z mistnich vesnicanu stavaji zebraci, kteri potom intenzivne otravuji turisty na trecich a ve mestech.

V protismeru mezi dvemi kaskadovymi policky potkavame dve zeny s otepi sena, ktere si z dalky fotime, avsak po priblizeni k nam pozaduji “picture money”. Nic takoveho. Po dalsich sto metrech si davame prestavku na malem prostranstvi, kde pozorujeme stale v mlze vyhled do udoli. Od Japonciku dostavame jak jinak nez japonsky bonbon a s nabranim novych sil sestupujeme k dalsi skupince domecku.

My jsme v druhorade pozornosti stale pobihajicich a zebrajicich deti. Nejvice dorazeji na starsi Japonku, na kterou temer skaci a vytahuji ji z batohu ruzne veci. Za svou drzost dostavaji deti od ni nakonec bonbony v domeni, ze se jich zbavi, ale opak byl pravdou. Deti jeste vice zacali dorazet a nakonec jsme je museli asertivne odhanet.

Odchazime a odmitame dati dalsi dary komukoliv a postupne se zajem pribihajicich a odbihajicich deti pomalu vytraci a my mizime mezi jednotlivymi policky s buvoly a kozami do mistni dzungle. S jistymi obavami sestupujeme cestickou a snazime neztratit jeden druheho. Slunce prosvita mezerami mezi hustym porostem a my pozorujeme ruzne plazive rostliny na pokrivenych stromech.

Mijime nekolik mistnich muzicku, zeny s otepi na zadech a usmudlane deti a pomalym tempem v zavesu nasi skupiny kontrolujeme kazde pohnuti v dzungli. S uspechem po hodinovem sestupu se dostavame pres potucek k vesnickym polickum, kde se pasou kravy a buvoli. Slunicko dnes krasne sviti a mlha v udoli se rozebehla do dzungle.

Kolem domecku, kde jsou u kulu privazany kravy a buvoli a chodi dokola po prave zkosenem obili, aby s nej vymlatili obilne zrno, se dostavame na asfaltovou cestu, kde s uspechem delame skupinove foto nasi ranni vypravy. Kolem jezera se dostavame dale do civilizace, prochazime kolem bambusove zavory, kde se vybira mitne, zdravime vojenskou hlidku, ktera za ostnatymi draty u mesta se vyhriva na slunicku a s mlsnou vyrazime do nasi oblibene “German Bakery”.

S prekvapenim pozorujeme japonskou vypravu jak s prekvapenim a apetitem do sebe laduji “yak cheese sandwich” a velice si pochvaluji. Nam postacila jedna bananova palacinka a caj s citronem a spolecne s Japonciky pozorujeme vykukujici vrcholky pohori Anapurna, ktere byly po cele dny naseho pobytu schovane za mlhou.

Loucime se s japonskou vypravou a znovu se ubytovavame v nasem Hotelu Avocado, kde nasledne na terase s vyhledem na jezero pri caji s citronem odpocivame.

K vecernich hodinach jdeme sondovat internet ve ctvrti “Lakeside”, ale ve vsech internetovych kavarnach, ktere jsme navstivili, nam presvedcive tvrdi, ze zde maji nejlevnejsi internet za 99 nepalek za hodinu a zadnou slevu nam nemohou dat, protoze je tu “strasne drahe” pripojeni. Radeji vyjizdime busem za 5 nepalek na osobu do mesta na internet za 30 nepalek na hodinu.

V noci s informaci, ze posledni bus k “Lakeside” jede v sedm hodin, marne stojime na krizovatce. Z okolnich obchudku na nas pokrikuji jednotlivy obchodnici “Come to see my shop!”, “Eat, eat?” ci “Cold drink”. S jistym neprijemnym odhodlanim se pomalymi kroky vydavame na 3 kilometrovou nucenou prochazku, kdyz v tom prijizdi bus.

Intenzivnim mavanim se alespon trochu zahrivame a zastavujem bus, ktery je uplne prazdny. Postupne se dozvidame, ze tri muzicci pouze prevazeji bus na jine stanoviste a shodou okolnosti jedou pres “Lakeside”. Dekujeme za svezeni zadarmo a zmrzli vyrazime do mistni drahe “Maya Restaurant” na poradny kus masa.

Na sirikouhle obrazovce pozorujeme hodne zmatenou sci-fi movie a objednavame si “fish steak and french fries” a horky caj. Movie me moc nebavila, a tak zacinam psat denik a pomalu popijim prineseny caj. Po temer hodince cekani nam jeden muzicek prinasi konecne jidlo a misto aby ho umistil na druhy okraj stolu, se ho snazi dostat primo ke me. Pri tomto manevru na me, klavesnici a hnedy vak s kamerou a fotakem vyleva muj rozpity caj.

“Sorry, sorry, sorry” omlouva se muzicek a po odbehnuti ho uz nevidim. Majitel restaurace se me snazi uklidnit a podava absolutne nesave ubrousky, ktere jsou uplne v kazde restauraci. S jistym nasazenim si vyptavam toaletni papir, ktery mi s neduverou podavaji, a likviduji skody na klavesnici a v batohu. Kamera a fotak nastesti zustaly suche a caj, ktery jsem mel rozpity, byl bez cukru, takze by vse melo byt v poradku.

Dnesni psani deniku je u konce. Nechavam si ohrat studenou rybu s hranolkama a po jidle radeji vyrazime do hotelu, kde si kupujeme jizdenku na zitrejsi bus do Kathmandu a jdeme se zahrat do spacaku pod dekami.

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Cesta kolem světa 8/2005-4/2007

Anapurna range

113. Den (28.11.2005)

No Comments yet »

Leave a comment

Prave se nachazime:

Byli jsme na ceste:

Bud otravovan !

Kategorie:

Archiv:

Statistiky clanku:

Nejctenejsi:

Nejlepe hodnocene:

Nejcasteji hodnocene:

Administrace:

Cesta kolem světa 8/2005-4/2007

Anapurna range

113. Den (28.11.2005)

No Comments yet »

Leave a comment

Prave se nachazime:

Byli jsme na ceste:

Bud otravovan !

Kategorie:

Archiv:

Odkazy:

Statistiky clanku:

Nejctenejsi:

Nejlepe hodnocene:

Nejcasteji hodnocene:

Administrace: